Where do you work, and how do you dress for your job?
Pick a sector, and I’ve probably spent some time working in a cube in it. Non-profits, government, tech, education, marketing, and back to non-profits and government a few more times.
With the exception of tech (mmm graphic print tees, jeans and sneakers), my jobs have usually come with an implied business casual dress code. A sometimes tricky category, especially if you are trying to find creative ways to make all your outfits work with flat shoes.
I wasn’t able to get much inspiration from women’s clothing companies: not a lot of campaigns of confident smart women getting things done in stylish, but practical, clothes. What I did see were images like this 2008 one from JCrew, of a windswept woman in thin heels with a clutch purse, striking an infantilizing “I have to pee” pose.
Yeah. If I’m looking for someone to chair a meeting, I’m going to that girl first.
Whether I agree with it or not, I believe there are still hierarchies reflected in, and informed by, how you dress. The ‘power suit’ came by that name honestly. There are many places you can work where what you can do is considered with less weight than how you look doing it.
Like lots of social games, you can opt out, and you can try a different approach, but you’re still better off to know what’s going on.
This particular JCrew outfit actually looks like it’s probably quite workable (minus the shoes). But I’m concerned with their unwillingness to market officewear for grown women to grown women.
Menswear ads are full of striding, watch-checking pinnacles of power and prestige, while women’s officewear more often features us looking off-balance and surprised. Make the clothing appear interesting, make it beautiful, make it out of the ordinary and aspirational, but don’t make it goofy.
I’m generalizing from what I’m exposed to and what I notice. I would love to be pointed in the direction of something else if it’s out there: clothing advertised to women who take their work and their credibility seriously.
Do you know of any?




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13 comments
Good point about the marketing thing. I've evolved into an Ann Taylor Loft gal, but still rely on New York & Co to dress me for work. Working in higher ed, I could get away with jeans & sweaters, but being 33 and looking 23, if I want any respect, I need to dress at bare minimum dress casual. I struggle with the dress thing all the time, every single day. Which explains why I have so many damn pieces of clothing that I don't wear! "Oh this will look good..." um, no.
Posted by Veronica
February 14, 2008, 3:23 PM
Luckily for me, most of my jobs have been small business (creative dress, tattoos/piercings ok, showers mandatory), but recently I've been having to pull off business casual. I find that a lot of H&M; works for me (they have a whole section of workish clothes that aren't dull/demeaning).
I think it's interesting to consider what women in the service industry have to deal with going to work, especially. I remember working in restaurants where I'd be told my work pants weren't 'tight enough,' or my top didn't show off my 'nice tits' enough.
Posted by Lex Gill
February 14, 2008, 6:01 PM
I've also heard that H&M; has decent labour practices - I can't confirm it, but apparently they manage to make stylish clothes cheaply by doing them in small batches, or something like that. Which is nice, since lots of business-casual places (i.e. Simon's, where I used to buy my work clothes - I used to teach ESL, same sitch as Veronica, except I actually was 23, and I was teaching 40-year-olds. Tense.) have an awful lot of Made-in-China labels.
Anyone else heard anything about H&M;'s manufacturing practices?
Posted by Anna
February 14, 2008, 9:02 PM
I've worked for different non-frontline not-for-profits, which means like I can dress like a total shlubbo - except I find that people (not my immediate co-workers) often don't take me seriously. I've lost count of how many times I've been asked if I'm a volunteer or a student - which can get pretty frustrating, sometimes even demeaning, when you're doing important work that is helping an entire org. stay afloat.
So wah wah, why don't I just dress like a grown-up then? Well, one because I think the problem is only partially what I'm wearing - I think people just assume that I'm young (read: inexperienced and not very competent) no matter what because I'm not a man, I'm not very large, and I'm not white. And two because I really think what you wear is a form of self-expression, and it makes me mad that I have to suppress who I am because other people are superficial. And dammit, I'm good at my jobs! Why should I have to change?
But in truth I have changed. I now have more cardigans than I ever thought I'd own, sigh.
Hm, re H&M;: I would be SHOCKED if they didn't have absolutely appalling labour practices. If you read the "made in" labels on their clothes, it's a veritable panoply of "3rd world" countries, from Bangladesh to Cambodia to Indonesia - often countries that you don't see typically on other "made in" labels. Even if they have decent labour practices, they sure are making lots of money off global economic inequality. That's not to say I don't own several things from H & M :(
Posted by Thea
February 14, 2008, 9:36 PM
This is such an important issue. Sometime I feel the only cloths that lend power in business-casual are masculine in their look. On the upside, I really like those silk scarf that you botton at the neck that are shaped like ties but have funkier colours.
Posted by Myra
February 15, 2008, 10:38 AM
Thea - yeah, I was inclined to think "sweatshop alert" the first time I went to H&M;, but I talked to someone who worked there and she seemed to think otherwise. But maybe she (and I) are just wishfully projecting... it is hard to believe.
I used to struggle with looking respectable at my job as a language instructor, needing to convince people twice my age that I actually did have something to teach them... lots of button-down shirts with nice patterns, plain skirts, and so on... but no matter what, I would always manage to foil myself. Holes in my tights, dirty bike helmet, whatever. Mostly it's my hair... it always looks unruly and skiddish, no matter what I do. It's like, I just can't help being a rebel, you know?
The flipside was the many years I spent working as a janitor, in which I would wear blouses and skirts on my days OFF.
Posted by Anna
February 15, 2008, 1:21 PM
I went ahead and looked up H&M; on the intertubes and found this review of their corporate social responsibility report. There's also the issue of retail store unions in the States; UNITE organized a boycott of H&M;, but appears to have found some common ground since then regarding the unionization of its retail employees.
None of the above answers the question of how they manage to produce clothes for so cheap, which I think brings us back to Thea's point: "Even if they have decent labour practices, they sure are making lots of money off global economic inequality." But if all of the above is true, at least it's a step in the right direction.
Posted by Wesley
February 15, 2008, 2 PM
Catherine- How on earth do thin heels and a clutch purse equate to inability to chair a meeting? This is exactly the sort of attitude that makes so many women feel that they have to choose between being "pretty" and "smart".
The rest of your article was very insightful.
Posted by Natalie
February 15, 2008, 5:27 PM
Natalie - her vapid expression and the pose she's striking are what make her look unprofessional.
The thin heels and clutch purse aren't pointed out because they make her look pretty and therefore not smart. But because they're not functional. I can't picture bringing that purse in for a weekday at the office. To me she looks ridiculous, not pretty.
I'd also like to see pretty/attractive expanded to include women who choose more atypical ways of being beautiful -- who wear, for example, stylish shoes that don't hurt your knees and back, and clothes that complement your particular body.
Posted by Catherine
February 16, 2008, 9:45 AM
Agreed, her off-balance pose and bewildered expression definitely look goofy. Maybe there are some ridiculous photos of male models sporting office wear while looking like they're desperate for a pee or in danger of falling over but you can be sure there are more of women.
Also agree with Thea in that they must be making tons of money off global economic inequality.
Posted by C.K. Kelly Martin
February 16, 2008, 1:56 PM
Okay, I see your point, she does look a little like a plastic barbie. It is nice to think that beauty could be individual and independant of ridiculousness.
Posted by Natalie
February 16, 2008, 6:26 PM
Thea, I know where you are coming from, but I vote work clothes all the way!
I like to shed my skin after work. I let the pinstripes soak up all of the business vibes and when I strip them off, the stress of the day crumples on the floor along with them. Then when I slip into my after-work clothes (okay, usually sweat pants), I'm a new gal.
My work personality is genuine, but it is just one side of myself. Work clothes help me to get into that character, I guess.
You hit it right on target -- clothes speak volumes, and it can be fun and fulfilling to use that to your advantage. I can spend weeks trying to convince someone that I'm competent in jeans, or I can "conform" and put on a suit, and gain instant points whether I deserve them or not.
Even the birds and the bees fluff up when they want to impress each other, of course, it doesn't cost them anything and the style doesn't change much...
Posted by Erin
February 19, 2008, 7:38 PM
A belated note on the topic of good clothes sellers - it was Zara I was thinking of, not H&M.; Their clothes are all made in places like Spain and Portugal (non-sweatshop), and they manufacture small runs of clothing and then increase them based on sales, so they're not producing huge excesses of stuff. Plus they're stylish, smart and not too pricey.
I still do most of my shopping at friperies, but when I need to know I can find a respectable pencil skirt, it's probably the best option.
Posted by Anna
March 30, 2008, 1:51 PM
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